To Know Me Is To Love Me...

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Suave raconteur and dinner party favourite. Once held the Olympic torch, has delivered newspapers to prime ministers, shaken hands with Prince Charles, wrecked Jason Donovan's skateboard, climbed 300 metre granite cliff faces, surfed with dolphins, appears on community radio and is in demand for these and the accounts of other thrilling exploits!

Saturday, February 28, 2009

At last, something off my 'To Do' List

I've been wanting to surfboard for some time now. After all I can do just about everything else in the water (sail, boggie board, swim, body surf, fish, snorkel etc). To be honest I regret not trying it when I was much younger, but as I recall the much younger version of me wasn't interested...

Well we got back from a week of Byron Bay relaxing on Friday and for 3 of those days I learnt at last how ride a board. Admittedly the waves were only about a one or two feet tall but they did manage to give me a ride of 40 or 50 odd meters when I did catch one.

When I was a young lad I inherited from my cousins a yellow skateboard. There was nothing flash about it, it was small had chunky wheels and was made of plastic. But I liked fooling around on it and after a while I got pretty good. One of the things I used to love doing was waiting for a windy day (which was not a long wait where I grew up) and using a jacket or plastic bag as a sail!
The sense of free movement and control I felt then was the same feeling I got from turning my board into the wave and completing my first S-turn. It gave me a clarity of mind and thought.

While learning to surf I shared the water with fish of all sizes and big shark and a pod of dolphins. I had a great time and was not disappointed in the experience. Not everyone I know likes the beach as much as I do, but I hope that people remain open to new experiences. All I've done is learnt how to stand up and some rudimentary basics, for me that's a great place to begin. I'm looking forward to my next surfing trip.

Does anybody have any 'To do' things on their list they can get done?

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