I've been wanting to surfboard for some time now. After all I can do just about everything else in the water (sail, boggie board, swim, body surf, fish, snorkel etc). To be honest I regret not trying it when I was much younger, but as I recall the much younger version of me wasn't interested...
Well we got back from a week of Byron Bay relaxing on Friday and for 3 of those days I learnt at last how ride a board. Admittedly the waves were only about a one or two feet tall but they did manage to give me a ride of 40 or 50 odd meters when I did catch one.
When I was a young lad I inherited from my cousins a yellow skateboard. There was nothing flash about it, it was small had chunky wheels and was made of plastic. But I liked fooling around on it and after a while I got pretty good. One of the things I used to love doing was waiting for a windy day (which was not a long wait where I grew up) and using a jacket or plastic bag as a sail!
The sense of free movement and control I felt then was the same feeling I got from turning my board into the wave and completing my first S-turn. It gave me a clarity of mind and thought.
While learning to surf I shared the water with fish of all sizes and big shark and a pod of dolphins. I had a great time and was not disappointed in the experience. Not everyone I know likes the beach as much as I do, but I hope that people remain open to new experiences. All I've done is learnt how to stand up and some rudimentary basics, for me that's a great place to begin. I'm looking forward to my next surfing trip.
Does anybody have any 'To do' things on their list they can get done?
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